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Big Fashion Licensors Taking Back Control of their Brands

By Glenn S. Demby, Esq.

The licensing model is one fashion trend that’s unlikely to ever go out of style. But a growing number of fashion licensors—especially the bigger houses—are bucking the trend and taking back direct control of their brands. The most recent example is Puig, the Barcelona-based beauty company and owner of Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances, which earlier this month ended its licensing deal with Shiseido and fully integrated JPG into its portfolio of owned brands.  

Other fashion licensors that have recently brought licensed products in-house:

  • French luxury group Kering terminated Gucci and created a new in-house eyewear division to control its Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands;
  • Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen ended their license with Jaya Apparel Group and brought their Elizabeth & James fashion brand in-house; and
  • Pharrell Williams repurchased Iconix Brands Group’s interest in BBC Ice Cream LLC, owner of the Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream brands.

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